"One way to see lions here is not to want to see them. You see, lions are prideful animals; once they learn we are not here for them, they make an appearance!" Mahesh, our Maldhari guide, tried to assuage our feelings about not spotting a lion yet. Our jeep ambled on the dirt tracks amidst the forest of Gir, which quietly wears its badge as the sole sanctuary of India's majestic lions. We had spent 2 hours on a nippy October morning searching for a glimpse of the big cat. While we were there for the lions, the jungle made us fall in love with nature's bounty all over again.
And it did not disappoint either. After a generous sighting of 6 lions, two young cubs strutting about, unaware (or unbothered) of prying eyes, we returned to the cosy confines of our jungle lodge, Aramness Gir. The luxury wilderness resort packs as much a punch with architectural prowess and local culture as with genuine Gujarati hospitality.
While the famed tiger reserves of Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan are a big draw for travellers worldwide, not many know that the Asiatic Lions hold a special place in the annals of Indian wildlife conservation. Lions were once designated the national animal shortly after India's independence, but dwindling numbers made it lose that title to a cat of another species – the Royal Bengal tiger. However, over the last few years, Gujarat Tourism's efforts have put Gir back in the spotlight for all the right reasons. And Aramness lets you savour a slice of the diversity that makes this national park a worthy addition to your safari itineraries across the jungles of India.
The Legacy Of Sasan Gir
Gir Forest, spanning a vast 1,412 square kilometres, is no ordinary sanctuary. Home to approximately 674 Asiatic lions, Gir is the last refuge for a species once hunted to near extinction. Yet, unlike the bustling safari circuits of Ranthambore or Bandhavgarh, Gir has remained a well-kept secret, overshadowed by India's tiger-centric tourism narrative.
This secret is best explored from the confines of Aramness Gir, located within the reserve forests of Sasan Gir, and accessible by a 2km long jagged path off the main road. We arrived in the dark of the night soon after the safari season opened post-monsoon, grateful for the two days of safaris and wholesome food ahead of us.
In the morning light, the resort serves as a reminder of the time when everything around forests was a beautiful blur. A portmanteau of two words: Aram (rest) and Ness (a Maldhari term for a small cluster of houses), Aramness is a gentle, respectful ode to the forest it occupies, which often comes in through the porous corners of the property. And its story begins with Jimmy Patel, a passionate wildlife conservationist and photographer whose visits to Gir as a child left an indelible mark. Years later, he returned to this remote corner to provide the same immersive yet luxurious experience as the safaris in Africa.
Patel roped in Fox Browne Creative and Nicholas Plewman Architects to bring his architectural vision to life, building a sustainable lodge that blends with its surroundings. Inside are 18 kothis–15 standard and three family kothis–which are double-storied expansive lodgings featuring verandas, shaded courtyards, private pools, outdoor showers, and luxurious touches like brass fixtures, vintage textiles, and intricate mud-mirror work known as lippan—a tradition native to the Kutch region. Each suite includes an opulent marble bathtub, a walk-in closet, and an upholstered jhoola (swing) with antique brass chains. At the same time, the interiors are dressed in warm tones of saffron, bone, and oxblood that evoke the earthy palette of Gir's wilderness.
But our journey began with its imposing Haveli, where a magnificent four-story sandstone jali—hand-cut and inspired by the dried sal leaves found in Gir's forests—dominates the space, housing a dining area, sitting room, and a library reached by a winding marble staircase. Here, for two days, we savour the best of Gujarati cuisine with a generous dollop of desserts. Despite its remote location, Aramness Gir surprises guests with its exceptional food; the seasonal menu highlights the best of Gujarati flavours alongside international dishes crafted from the lodge's organic garden (their Gujarati Swaminarayan Thali comes highly recommended).
Like its wild side, sustainability is also a cornerstone at Aramness; local materials like reclaimed wood and stone from nearby villages weave local heritage into the lodge's aesthetic. The lodge maintains a strict zero-plastic policy and minimises food waste through meticulous planning. Remarkably, only 40% of the 12-acre property has been developed, leaving the remaining 60% under natural vegetation. Thousands of trees have been planted, and new water bodies created (with the occasional crocodile making an appearance), transforming a once barren landscape into a lodge where morning nature walks take precedence over evening tipples.
On The Periphery Of Urban LifeMaldhari, the local tribe that resides in the 'nesses' both inside and on the outskirts of Gir National Park, has been pivotal in the success of Gujarat's lion conservation efforts. While safaris are the cynosure in Gir, folks at Aramness Gir are kind with their arrangements for guests who wish to visit local Maldhari villages. On one such outing, we accompanied Ankit, our kind naturalist, to Sangodra. Here, we meet a Maldhari family, who treat us to fresh tea and tales about their family. They rear cattle, as does the entire community, which makes them a part of the jungle's intricate ecosystem. While everybody has lost a cow or two to hungry lions, this sacrifice is part of the balance. Many Maldhari community members, owing to their incredible tracking skills and proximity to the lions, serve as members of the forest department and safari guides.
On our way back, Ankit regales us with stories of lion trackers, the man-eater tigers of Kumaon, and his enduring love for wildlife, which brought him from Ramnagar (which straddles the Jim Corbett National Park), to the western end of Gujarat, in search of a different cat. He easily points out vultures, sparrows and magpies while stopping the jeep for a few seconds to let us admire a herd of deer right outside the hotel's periphery.
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Beyond the safari adventures, there are pottery sessions to keep your wandering musings in check and an infinity pool that reflects the hues of the savannah sunset. You can also unwind at the luxurious spa or head to the craft gallery, which showcases local artisans' work. Simply put, there is no dearth of experiences.
Once inside, we return to the kothi and find recourse in our books, sitting close to the pool modelled on the many step-wells that dot the arid regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan. You could, like me, wipe away your stresses with a quiet dip, but watch out for tanning, though! The sun here isn't as kind as the Gujarati hospitality.
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