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South India has got a plethora of micro cuisines that showcase vibrant culture of the region. Among all Chettinad cuisine stands out due to its robust and fiery dishes. Hailing from the Chettinad region in the Sivaganga district of Tamil Nadu, this cuisine reflects the Chettiar community's rich history, extensive travels and deep-seated cultural roots. Chettinad food is a celebration of spices, slow-cooked flavours and culinary techniques that have been passed down through generations. Let's take a dive into its true essence with the experts on this cuisine.
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The Historical Roots of Chettinad Cuisine
Chettinad cuisine is deeply rooted into the history of the Chettiar community, a prosperous group known for their business acumen, particularly in trade and banking. The Chettiars originally lived in the coastal area of Poompuhar, which was devastated by a tsunami in the 16th century. This catastrophe forced them to relocate inland, where they established the Chettinad region.
Sam John, the General Manager of Visalam – CGH Earth, says, “The Chettiars’ background as spice traders is evident in their culinary practices, which include ingredients such as cumin seeds, fennel seeds, cardamom, fenugreek, coriander seeds, cinnamon, star anise, and the unique Kalpasi (black stone flower).” These spices are often dry roasted, with or without oil, and ground fresh to create the distinctive masalas that give Chettinad cuisine its signature depth and complexity.
However, the cuisine is not just about the heat of the spices but rather a mix that brings out rich, aromatic flavours. Chef Shri Bala, a food historian and owner of Yercaud Kitchen, highlights the unique aspects of Chettinad cuisine, stating, “Chettinad masala is a very unique aspect of their cuisine, with the use of Kalpasi, Marathi Moggu, and poppy seeds being particularly distinctive.” These ingredients are integral to the authentic taste of Chettinad dishes.
The Influence of Foreign Trade and Travel
The Chettiars' extensive trade relations and frequent travels to Far East Asian countries had a significant influence on their cuisine. This exposure to different cultures and culinary practices introduced new ingredients and techniques into Chettinad cooking. For instance, the use of coconut milk, a staple in Far East Asian cuisine, became a prominent feature in Chettinad dishes, setting it apart from other South Indian cuisines that typically used grated coconut or coconut paste.
Chef Shri Bala explains, "Due to their foreign travel, they were exposed to multi-cuisine, and that's how coconut milk got into their food. Otherwise, South Indians would use raw coconut, either grated or ground into a paste." This adaptation shows the Chettiar community's ability to blend their traditional practices with new influences, creating a cuisine that is both rooted in history and open to innovation.
What Sets Chettinad Cuisine Apart?
Chettinad cuisine is often compared with other South Indian cuisines, but it stands out for its unique and extensive use of freshly ground spices. Chef Gobu Kumar R, Executive Chef- Intercontinental, Chennai Mahabalipuram Resort emphasises the importance of roasting and grinding spices separately to enhance their flavours. “Chettinad spices are roasted and ground, while other cuisines might grind spices directly, adding coconut or mild spices. This plays a huge role in the distinct taste of Chettinad cuisine,” he explains.
The complexity of Chettinad cuisine is further highlighted by its use of a wide array of ingredients, each contributing to the layers of flavour that make the dishes so remarkable. Tamarind adds a tangy note, while curry leaves impart a fresh, herbal aroma. The careful balance of these ingredients ensures that each dish is flavorful without being overwhelmingly spicy.
Sam John describes a traditional Chettinad meal or saapaddu, which starts with salt, pickle, and raita served on a banana leaf. "The meal features poriyals—vegetables like capsicum, snake gourd, banana stem, and yam sautéed with grated coconut. Non-vegetarian options like fish or chicken fry are common, with the centerpiece being rice, served plain or flavoured, accompanied by sambhar, rasam or various kuzhambu with mutton, egg, fish, or crab."
The Influence Of Global Trade On Chettinad Cuisine
Chettinad cuisine has evolved over the centuries, adapting to changes in the community's lifestyle and external influences. Originally a vegetarian community, the Chettiars gradually incorporated non-vegetarian dishes into their cuisine, a shift attributed to their extensive travels and trade relationships. Chef Shri Bala states, "The non-vegetarian became a staple in their homes, and the women also started slowly getting into adapting themselves to having non-vegetarian food."
This evolution shows that in the wide range of meat-based dishes that are now integral to Chettinad cuisine, such as Chettinad Kari Kozhambu and Chettinad Mutton Biryani. These dishes are celebrated for their robust flavors, achieved through the careful selection and preparation of spices.
However, Chef Shri Bala also points out the misrepresentation of Chettinad cuisine in many modern restaurants, where the focus is often on replicating recipes found online rather than understanding the nuances of the cuisine. "Not all the food which is cooked in the Chettinad region has Chettinad masala or garam masala. There are very simple recipes too which don't need anything other than the basic ingredients like salt, tamarind and a little bit of coconut. But people think that everything needs to have a Chettinad masala which is a wrong note or a misconception."
Beyond The Boundaries Of South India
Anjali Gupta, a chef and owner of Hema's South Indian in Delhi says, Chettinad food from Tamil Nadu has got a lot of passionate audience in the capital city. Her family has a legacy in South Indian cuisine and the love and demand for homecooked Chettinad dishes and other cuisines from the Southern region paved a way for her to start serving the foodies of Delhi. “We began with cooking workshops where my mother would teach people how to make simple things like batter, sambar, or chutney from scratch. People loved it, and soon we were booked out for months,” Anjali recalls. Hema’s South Indian offers a variety of Chettinad specialties, including Vegetable Chettinad Masala, Chicken Chettinad Masala, Mutton Chops Chukka, Prawns Tossed in Homemade Malgapodi, and a traditional home-style sambar. “Our masalas are made from scratch using a blend of locally sourced dals and whole spices from Southern India, which brings out the authentic flavours of Chettinad cuisine,” Anjali explains.
Beyond The Main Course
Chettinad cuisine is not just about its rich main courses but also boasts a variety of unique desserts and snacks. "Among the popular desserts is Paal Payasam, a creamy rice pudding made with milk, sugar, and rice, flavoured with cardamom and garnished with cashews and raisins. Adirasam is another traditional sweet made from rice flour and jaggery, deep-fried to a golden brown with a crispy exterior and soft, chewy interior. Kavuni Arisi, a unique dessert made from black sticky rice, sugar, and coconut, is slow-cooked to develop a rich flavour. Ukkra, made with moong dal and jaggery, is another cherished sweet in Chettinad households". explains Sam John.
Chettinad snacks are equally distinctive he further adds, "Murukku is a crunchy, spiral-shaped treat made from rice flour, urad dal flour and spices, perfect for tea-time. Thattai are thin, crispy crackers seasoned with sesame seeds, while Seepu Seedai is a deep-fried snack made from rice flour and coconut milk, named after its comb-like shape. For a savoury and nutritious option, Sundal, made from boiled legumes like chickpeas or lentils, is seasoned with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and coconut."
Chettinad cuisine is a true representation of the Chettiar community's history, culture, and adaptability. From its roots in the arid lands of Tamil Nadu to the influences brought back from far-flung travels, this cuisine is a celebration of spice, flavour and innovation. Despite the challenges of modern misrepresentation, the authentic flavors of Chettinad continue to thrive, offering a rich and satisfying culinary experience that is as diverse as it is delicious.
Kariveppilai Poondu Kuzhambu Recipe
By Chef Gobu Kumar R
Ingredients:
- 1 cup curry leaves
- 15-20 peeled garlic cloves
- 15-20 peeled shallots (whole)
- 2 medium tomatoes (pureed)
- small ball of tamarind (lemon-sized)
- 2 medium onions (sliced)
- ¼ tsp turmeric powder
- 3 tsp coriander powder
- 2 tsp red chilli powder
- ½ inch ginger piece (finely chopped)
- 3 green chilies (slit)
- 50 ml gingelly oil
- Salt to taste
For tempering:
- 1 tsp mustard seeds
- ½ tsp urad dal
- 2 whole red chilies
- 1 sprig curry leaves
Method:
- Heat 10 ml of gingelly oil in a frying pan. Add the curry leaves and fry for 2-3 minutes on medium heat until they are cooked through. Be cautious not to overcook them, as they may turn bitter.
- Once cooked, grind the curry leaves to a smooth puree with a little water. Set it aside.
- Soak the tamarind in 1 cup of hot water and extract the pulp. Keep this aside.
- Heat the remaining oil in a vessel. Add mustard seeds, and when they begin to pop, add urad dal, red chilies, and curry leaves. Fry them briefly.
- Remove the tempering from the oil and keep it aside.
- Lightly crush the garlic and shallots. Add them to the oil used for tempering and fry on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until they start to change colour.
- Add the chopped ginger and fry for another couple of minutes.
- Add the tempering back to the pan along with the pureed tomatoes. Cook until the raw smell of the tomatoes disappears.
- Stir in the curry leaf puree, turmeric powder, coriander powder, red chili powder, green chilies, and salt. Mix everything well.
- Bring the mixture to a boil. Once it starts boiling, add the tamarind extract and let it simmer for 5 to 10 minutes until the gravy thickens slightly.
- Serve the Kariveppilai Poondu Kuzhambu hot, garnished with fresh curry leaves.