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“Without beaten rice, there is no Tihar,” explains our guide as we perch on low stools at a Newari home kitchen in Patan Durbar Square, Kathmandu while the family whips up lentil pancakes and dishes up an array of local vegetables. Diwali is a celebration known worldwide as a festival of lights, dancing, music, and feasting, and most commonly associated with India. But just over the border in Nepal, Diwali has its own identity that underscores how differences are worth celebrating.
Known as Tihar, the five-day celebration is the biggest festival of the year right after Dashain (Nepal’s Dusshera), and people from all walks of life celebrate with gusto across a unique set of celebrations. Home to hundreds of temples and odes to Nepal’s Hindu and Buddhist roots, Kathmandu is the native city of the Newari community, and often, their rituals are the most widely practised here.
What Is Tihar?
Tihar is a five-day Hindu festival that typically falls in October or November, during the Nepali month of Kartik. The festival holds profound religious and cultural significance, celebrating the victory of light over darkness and good over evil. Each day of Tihar is dedicated to different deities and living beings, creating a unique cycle of worship and celebration that emphasises the interconnectedness of all life.
With around 81% of the population in Nepal identifying as Hindu, the festival is one of the most widely celebrated throughout the country. But with Nepal having around 140 distinct tribes, each with its own languages and customs, the variety in how Tihar is celebrated is as diverse as the country itself.
The festival's timing coincides with the end of the monsoon season and the harvest period, making it a celebration of nature's abundance and the cycle of life. Homes across Nepal are decorated with marigold flowers, oil lamps (diyo), and intricate rangoli patterns made with coloured rice flour, and flower petals and sweets and traditional meals become the centre of attention.
What Are The Unique Celebrations Of Tihar?
While the overall experiences of Tihar would be very familiar to those who celebrate Diwali, there are some key differences.
Day 1: Kaag Tihar (Crow Day)
The festival begins by honouring crows, considered messengers of Yamraj, the god of death. People offer food to these birds on their rooftops, seeking to avert grief and death in their families. The cawing of crows is believed to symbolise sadness and grief, and by feeding them, people hope to appease these harbingers of Yama.
Day 2: Kukur Tihar (Dog Day)
Perhaps one of the most distinctive aspects of Tihar is the day dedicated to dogs. Dogs are worshipped with garlands, tika (red powder mark), and special treats. This celebration recognises dogs' loyalty and their mythological significance as messengers of Yama and guardians of the gates of heaven. Stray dogs roam freely and are welcomed into many establishments where they’re cared for by locals.
Day 3: Gai Tihar and Laxmi Puja
The morning begins with the worship of cows, symbols of wealth and prosperity in Hindu culture. The evening is dedicated to Goddess Laxmi, the deity of wealth and prosperity. Homes are illuminated with oil lamps and electric lights to welcome the goddess. People perform Laxmi Puja and play Deusi-Bhailo, traditional songs accompanied by dancing.
Day 4: Goru Tihar and Mha Puja
In some communities, this day involves the worship of cows and oxen, but for the Newar community, this is also a celebration of Mha Puja – the worship of the self or body. A special rangol is created for each family member, representing the universe and one's place within it plus one extra dedicated to Lord Ganesha.
Day 5: Bhai Tika
The festival concludes with Bhai Tika, celebrating the sacred bond between brothers and sisters. Sisters apply seven colourful tikkas to their brothers' foreheads called Satrangi, offer prayers for their long life and prosperity, and exchange gifts. Brothers, in turn, promise to protect their sisters. Unlike the Indian counterpart Bhai Duj, Bhai Tika is usually a mutual celebration with siblings exchanging gifts and blessings irrespective of gender.
Food Of Tihar
One of the most popularised aspects of Nepali cuisine is the Thakali thali rooted in the community of the Thak Khola region of the Mustang District, featuring simple staples like ghee rice, black dal, a wholesome chicken curry, pickles and vegetable sides. But in the heart of Nepal's rich cultural tapestry lies Tihar, a festival that celebrates community, tradition, and most importantly, food. The festival's culinary traditions, particularly within the Newari community, showcase an impressive array of over 80 distinct items that represent centuries of cultural heritage and gastronomic expertise. Rice is at the core of many dishes and drinks as the terrain and climate are less favourable for wheat. Hardier crops like millets, particularly Kodo Millet also thrive in Nepal and lentils are also commonly used in lieu of other flours such as in Bara, lentil pancakes often served topped with a fried egg and a meat gravy.
Being a primarily Hindu country, beef is rare in Kathmandu though still eaten in more rural communities and buffalo meat is preferred. Chicken is the primary meat for most families and with the influx of modern farming and agriculture, mutton is also becoming more popular although not to the same popularity as chicken and eggs.
The Traditional Dining Experience
Unlike modern dining customs, Tihar meals are enjoyed while seated on the floor upon a traditional straw mat called a Sukul. This practice goes beyond mere tradition – it represents a deep connection with the earth. “Diners sit cross-legged, and according to custom, should press down on their ankles, even to the point of mild discomfort,” explains Bibek Shrestha- Senior Sales, Manager, from Kathmandu Marriott Hotel, “as this is believed to aid in digestion and turn a simple meal into a spiritual experience.”
Staple Dishes and Preparations
At the heart of Tihar's feast is beaten rice, locally known as baji. It comes in many forms, as per the number of rice varieties of the country and while simple in nature, it forms the foundation of the meal, accompanied by an elaborate spread of accompaniments. The feast includes various preparations of beans, including chickpeas and kidney beans, complemented by saag (leafy greens) and the distinctive choila.
Choila, a signature Newari preparation, deserves special mention. This dried meat delicacy comes in over 84 varieties, each unique to Newari culture. The preparation process is meticulous: raw meat is first dried and smoked until it achieves a darker colour. The meat is then cut into small pieces and seasoned with a flavorful mixture of mustard oil, chilli flakes, and salt.
Sweet Traditions
The festival's sweet offerings are equally impressive and Suman Maharjan, Assistant Food and Beverage Manager of Kathmandu Marriott Hotel and a member of the Newari community explains the significance of a few favourites, “Lakhamari and Aithamari stand out among the desserts, with the latter being particularly special – a 12-inch diameter sweet that holds cultural significance as a traditional wedding gift and its said that when the grooms family offers this sweet it confims the marriage proposal.”
Sel Roti also takes on special importance during Dashain and Tihar. This ring-shaped bread, begins its journey as a carefully crafted batter. Rice flour is first fermented, then blended with water, sugar, ghee, and aromatic spices until it reaches the perfect consistency. This traditional delicacy achieves its signature golden-brown crisp exterior and soft interior when skillfully deep-fried in pure desi ghee, creating a treat that's both festive and comforting.
Chaku, another traditional sweet, adds to the festival's diverse dessert repertoire. It’s made from a rich dark syrup similar to molasses or treacle, and stands as a cherished sweet delicacy in Nepali culinary heritage. Made through the patient process of concentrating sugarcane juice until it transforms into a thick, glossy syrup, this traditional confection has been warming Nepali homes and hearts for generations. While molasses may be its closest English equivalent, chaku possesses unique characteristics and cultural significance that sets it apart in Nepal's sweet-making tradition.
One cannot discuss Tihar sweets without mentioning Yomari, the festival's quintessential sweet dish originating from the Newar community. This delicate preparation features a fine rice flour dough, carefully crafted with precisely measured water to achieve the perfect consistency. It’s then stuffed with a mixture of coconut and jaggery, a familiar combination to anyone who celebrates with festive modaks.
Traditional Tihar Beverages
The beverage selection at Tihar is as rich as its food offerings. The festival features several traditional drinks that showcase Nepal's rich heritage of fermented and distilled drinks. Chyang, a fermented rice beer, offers a gentler introduction to these traditional libations with its mild, slightly sweet profile. For those seeking something stronger, Aila (also spelt Ayla) delivers a potent kick as a carefully distilled rice spirit that has been produced by local artisans for generations. Completing the trinity of traditional drinks is Raksi, a local alcoholic beverage that bears a resemblance to whisky in both strength and character. Crafted from either kodo millet or rice, Raksi holds a special place in ceremonial and festive occasions, embodying the craftsmanship of Nepal's traditional distillation methods.
According to Suman Maharjan, these beverages once played an integral role in the festival's celebrations. A traditional offering to visitors once included Aila paired with fried eggs, creating a unique combination that reflects the festival's culinary creativity. However, in the modern age, offering tea and coffee is just as common as chyang.
The extensive array of dishes, traditional serving customs, and variety of beverages at Tihar demonstrate the festival's importance in preserving and celebrating Tihar’s culinary heritage. Each dish and custom tells a story of tradition, community, and cultural identity that continues to thrive in modern Nepal.
This article was made possible with the help and hospilitality of the team at Kathmandu Marriott Hotel and their expert insights.