Table of Contents
As the morning of Onam dawns, it’s a good time to consider the age-old Malayalam proverb which states simply, "kanam vittum onam unnanam" meaning ‘one may even sell off one's possessions, to celebrate with an Onam Sadya feast’. India’s festivals are some of the few times we see differences slipping away to give way to unity and shared celebration, but none showcase that community spirit quite as elegantly as Onam. Kerala's grand festival marks the homecoming of the legendary King Mahabali, under whose reign the land is said to have flourished with prosperity and peace.
This vibrant 10-day cultural and harvest festival concludes on the day of Thiruvonam, the most auspicious day, which falls on 15 September this year and will be celebrated by Malayalis around the world. While each day of Onam comes with its own traditions from creating the flower rangoli known as Pookkalam to cultural performances, one of the most central parts of the festival is the Onam Sadya, a sumptuous vegetarian feast served on banana leaves.
What is the Onam Sadya?
While the Onam Sadya may at first glance look like a simple thali – a common sight in India cuisines – it has a much more complex significance with each element playing its own unique role. “The science behind that equilibrium which only a Sadhya can achieve is far from what is visible to the human eye,” says Food Anthropologist and Kerala native Oneal Sabu, “A Sadhya for Onam (OnaSadhya) signifies the dawn of the new harvest from nature's bountiful treasures.”
The true scale of the Sadya doesn’t only begin in the days leading up to Thiruvonam, but months in advance as seeds are sown to be harvested in the Malayalam month of Chingam. Every element of the Sadya has a scientific significance, starting with the banana leaf itself. “[It is] rich in antioxidants and allows food served on it to absorb polyphenols that help with its antibacterial properties to aid with the ingestion of germ-free food,” says Oneal.
Staples Of The Onam Sadya
Even the simplest of sadyas typically features at least 11 dishes, and can extend to 64 or more, such as the elaborate Aranmula Vallasadya, which may include over 100 items in a single meal. The meticulous balance of acids, proteins, carbohydrates, and fats in each sadya is crucial, contributing to its distinctive character and complexity.
Coconut is one of the key components of the Sadya, not just in its dried or grated form but in the form of coconut milk that stands in for dairy in many situations. Typically, beyond the banana leaf platter itself, Onam sadyas don’t include leafy vegetables either since the monsoon season around the time of Onam means leafy greens are rarely in a first state to cook with. While the Onam Sadya is a state-wide tradition and all communities celebrate the festival, each has its own distinct touch to add to the meal. And where the Sadya unites, the regional nuances pay homage to the cultural differences and spectrum of experiences that make up Kerala.
The Regional Divisions Of Kerala Sadya
Kerala is a state shaped by its trade history. As a hub for spices, it drew travellers from all over the world who were eager to partake in its agricultural riches and each community has left its own mark on the regions in which they settled.
“Kerala is basically divided into three regions,” says Chef and Kerala food expert Marina Balakrishnan, “You have North Malabar, where you find Kannur, Thalassery, Calicut, and other places. Then you have the southern region, which is Trivandrum, and the central region, which includes places like Palakkad and Thrissur and every region has its own distinct identity.
The dishes that appear also vary as per the region. “Sadhya is eaten differently in different parts of Kerala, the Travancore Sadya features Boli and Paal payasam towards the end. Or the Pallakkad Sambar has dry roasted coconuts in it. In some parts, pappadams are meant to be crushed over the dark Payasam along with a small banana to balance the meal.
Types Of Regional Sadyas
Temple Sadyas
In Kerala, the culinary tradition of temple food, particularly the sadya, is a significant yet often underappreciated aspect of the region's cuisine. Marina highlights that "the priest community has have been cooking the sadyas with no onion, no garlic as an offering to the temple." This tradition underscores the importance of dishes like pulissery and moru curry in temple cuisine. She points out that "Temple food is a huge culinary heritage of Kerala, which very, very few people are talking about." The Nambudiri Brahmins, known for their roles as priests, have been pivotal in preparing these elaborate feasts, including those served during Onam. Marina notes that their sadyas are not very pungent, reflecting the mild and subtle flavours of temple cooking.
Erstwhile Travancore And The Influx Of Coconut
The Sadya in the Travancore region is known for its lavishness, particularly due to the influence of the Travancore kings who were famous for their grand celebrations. “ Sambar again is a different thing which came in from the Marathi influence. So they had so they probably contributed to the Sambar in the Sadya,” says Oneal. The Travancore Sadya is considered the largest of its kind, and even today, when attending a wedding or a function, the Sadya is seen as a celebratory meal rather than part of daily life. This grandeur has carried through to occasions like Onam, when Sadya takes centre stage.
Central Kerala
Trade with the West isn’t the only thing that shaped sadyas, influences from within India too have resulted in dishes we now consider staples of Kerala. Europeans, Arabs, and others have come in, each leaving a mark on the region. In the central region, which includes Palakkad, Thrissur, Ernakulam, and Alappuzha, you will notice slight variations in how the sadyas are prepared. “Sambhar and Rasam like Pappadam are invasive to Kerala cuisine but harmoniously co-exist with other traditional elements,” says Oneal.
Oneal adds that "the legend has it that it was cooked first by Bheem in the Mahabharata," tying the dish to Indian mythology. He suggests that avial, while known for its coconut base in Kerala, is a variation of a traditional vegetable stew found across the country, with different forms and names depending on the region.
Avial is a dish with deep roots in Kerala's culinary traditions, yet it varies across regions. As Marina Balakrishnan points out, "In Thrissur when you see the avial, they add bitter gourd whereas the Malabar region doesn’t and the souring agent changes as well. In the Malabar avial we add yogurt and on the Trivandrum side, I think there is the element of tamarind that is added into it. And towards the central region, like Palakkad and the other places, there is raw mango also added into it.”
North Kerala
In Kochi, the Onam sadya holds a unique position, with certain dishes that set it apart from other regions in Kerala. "It's a harvest area. So Onam in terms of Onam Sadya being celebrated in Kochi is like a very little thing when compared to the other parts of Kerala," says Oneal, “but it has its distinct culinary contributions. For instance, the use of fruits like pineapple, now a staple throughout Kerala, can be traced back to Kochi's exposure to different influences through the Colombian exchange. "So that thing was a contribution of the Kochi states to the rest of the Sadya. Certain dishes remain constant across all sadyas, like erissery, pulissery, avial, and olan.
Malabar Muslims And The Non-Vegetarian Sadya
The Malabar regions of North Kerala played host to Arabic traders for the most part and those influences are still seen in the addition of meat or seafood additions to the Sadya which is typically vegetarian. “This is likely due to the influence of the Mappila or Moplah community, which is a prominent group in North Malabar,” says Marina “While a sadya has historically been a purely vegetarian feast, this cultural integration has led to the inclusion of meat dishes especially in non-temple settings.”
Eriserry, a traditional Kerala dish, varies significantly by region. Marina notes, "The texture of eriserry also varies according to region." She explains that her version of eriserry is drier compared to the more mushy and flat counterparts found elsewhere. Additionally, she highlights regional variations in other dishes like payasam. "For instance, there is a Parippu Pradhaman, which is very popular in the Malabar region of Kerala." This dish, made with a mixture of jaggery and coconut milk, is distinct from milk-based payasam, which uses sugar. "In all the Pradhamans, I've seen that cinnamon and cloves go into it and it's very popular in the Malabar region where the cinnamon and cloves go into it," she adds. This regional use of spices reflects a deep-rooted culinary tradition specific to Malabar, contributing to the unique flavour profile of the dishes.
The Sadya, and in particular, the Onam Sadya is more than just a meal to the people of Kerala. It’s a cultural experience where every bite is carefully considered, balanced and weighed not only for its flavours but for its impact. Each component on the banana leaf thoughtfully chosen, reflecting a deeper culinary philosophy rather than mere convenience. The meticulous arrangement of dishes demonstrates the profound thought and care embedded in Kerala’s food traditions, making it an art form that deserves to be celebrated in every bite.