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Welcome to 'From the Chef's Table', an exclusive series at TIMES FOODIE where we take you on a culinary journey through the diverse and rich flavours from a chef's eye of his love and interpretation of a particular region in India. In each edition, the renowned chefs explore the must-try traditional food items that every traveller should savour and bring back home. Each episode will help you understand the cultural significance of unique ingredients and flavours that define the state's culinary heritage, uncovering the stories and traditions behind them.
Nestled in the verdant forests of Karnataka, in the misty shadows of the Western Ghats, lies Kodagu (formerly Coorg) – a region whose cuisine reflects the extraordinary biodiversity of its landscape. Known as the "Scotland of India" for its rolling hills carpeted with coffee plantations and silver-oak trees, Kodagu's culinary heritage is a testament to centuries of thoughtful foraging and farming traditions. From wild mushrooms and bamboo shoots to the famed Kodagu black pepper and cardamom, each ingredient tells a story of the land's abundance.
At the forefront of preserving and elevating this distinctive cuisine stands Anjali Ganapathy, a chef and culinary researcher whose work through "Pig Out – A Coorg Kitchen Story" is bringing renewed attention to these ancient flavors. More than just creating meals, Ganapathy acts as a cultural curator, meticulously documenting the origins and significance of Kodagu's signature ingredients. Her research delves deep into traditional preservation techniques, seasonal cooking patterns, and the strong connection between the Kodava people and their forest home.
Through carefully curated dining experiences, Ganapathy invites guests on a sensory journey through Kodagu's landscape – from the earthy notes of wild tubers to the sharp heat of native peppercorns. Her work goes beyond the kitchen, helping to safeguard an often overlooked but vital piece of India's culinary mosaic. By highlighting indigenous ingredients and time-honored preparation methods, she ensures that Kodagu's rich gastronomic heritage continues to thrive in contemporary times.
We caught up with Chef Ganapathy to get an insider's perspective on what you need to know, try, and bring back next time you make a trip to Coorg.
What are the must-try traditional food items from Coorg that travellers should consider bringing back home?
My top pantry additions for travellers are:
- Karth (black) masala is our particular blend of spices, like a bottle masala or panch phoran. A blend of spices roasted & ground, used to marinate meats and added to gravies.
- Kachampulli is the souring agent used to marinate, cure and flavour dishes. Made from the fermented extract of Garcinia gummi-gutta, this lends to the sour and smokey flavour of the pandi curry and other dishes of the Coorg repertoire.
- Spices such as Pepper, cardamom and aracanut, have been grown for generations in Coorg. There are several spice shops that travellers can buy them from.
- Coffee is synonymous with Coorg. One can find many options of varieties, blends and farms that now brand and make their own roasts. For a coffee lover its the perfect place to learn about Coffee and take some back for friends and family.
- Preserves and pickles – We have a tradition of making juice concentrates, pickles and jams. You’ll find a large variety of pickles, preserves, homemade wines and liqueurs, made from fruits and spices that are either indigenous to the region or grown here. Great for taking back with you and enjoying with your meal when the holiday is over.
Also Read: From The Chef’s Table: Chef Avinash Martins Talks About The Food And Flavours Of Goa
Can you explain the cultural significance of any specific food items or flavours that are unique to Coorg?
Rice would that the one staple, which holds both cultural and culinary significance to the Coorg community.
Traditionally we were paddy farmers. The wetlands where paddy was grown, signified the wealth of the village in the old days. It stood for prosperity and wellbeing of families. Two of our main festivals, Puthari and Kailpodh revolve around rice. Puthari (meaning new rice) is our harvest festival and Kailpodh signifies the day when the transplanting of paddy is completed. From a cuisine perspective, all of our accompaniments are rice-based, most desserts and snacks have some form of rice being used to bind, give body or flavour. Rice is also used to make local brews, and used on auspicious occasions like weddings and other ceremonies.
Is there any particular dish you remember from your childhood that helped you connect with Kodava cuisine?
It has to be the Pandi curry. Growing up in a defence family, we moved cities every other year. There was a lot of hosting and entertaining, in the defence, and mum's menus were elaborate. She would do a mix of roasts, bakes, curries, breads and salads. And if there was good pork available, Pandi curry was the star. It always draws attention with its unusual black colour, sour flavour and peppery gravy. Approached with curiosity and wiped clean with the last piece of bread or rice, it was and still is that one dish, that connects me to a people and place.
What are some of your favourite dishes that showcase the flavours of Coorg?
Pandi curry – Pork curry, made with Karth masala and kachampulli, enjoyed with kadambutt (steamed rice balls). This wholesome spicy, tart gravy represents facets of our hunting and foraging ways. From wild boar hunting to finding ways to flavour and preserve with fermented wild fruit. This gravy has depth.
Kaad Maange – Coorg wild mangoes. There are several fruits, berries, vegetables, and herbs that show up in our kitchens. All Indigenous and seasonal, many that can’t be farmed or we have yet to figure out how. Of them, the wild mango is one that leaves a lasting impression. Tiny egg-shaped, pock-marked green-skinned mangoes, fibrous and sweet with a sharp tartness. The kaad maange curry, to me represents that wild untamed forest on a plate.
Baimbale – Tender bamboo shoots, reminds me of the river and wildlife that call Coorg their home. Ladies show up at your doorstep selling bamboo shoots, like clockwork each year. They are foraged and harvested from river banks during the onset of rains. The shoots are fermented and drained first to remove toxins, over a 48hr period, and used in pickles, vegetables and curries. These tender shoots have a distinct crunchy and sour flavour, which leave a lasting textural memory on ones palate.
Kumm – We have a few varieties of wild mushrooms like the termitomyces indices that appear during the monsoons. Pickled, roasted or in curries..these are treasures and usually pop up after a thunderstorm or when the conditions are just right. Common 2 decades ago, you’ll be lucky to find them in your backyard today, but if you do consider yourself a very lucky diner. The meaty earthy flavour is delicious.
Onek Erachi – Dried & Smoked meats. This showcases one of our preservation techniques, wherein meats were places above a woodfire stove, eventually drying out and picking up smokiness and aroma. This was a way to preserve and extend the life of meat. This smoked meat is delicious in any preparation, its hard to go wrong with it.
Kaipulli – Bitter lime / Citrus Aurantium. This local fruit makes delicious juice concentrate, pickle and chutneys.
For those unfamiliar with Kodava cuisine, what dishes would you offer them in the thali for the first traditional meal?
I would choose 5 dishes that could represent the landscape and culinary influences of Coorg cuisine.
- Pandi curry (pork curry) – forest and hunts
- Koilemeen (paddy fish) – wetlands
- Kaad maande curry (wild mango) – wild fruit and veg
- Baimbale (bamboo shoot) – rivers and wildlife
- Onek erachi (smoked meat) – preservation
- Akki otti (rice roti) – rice farming
Chef Anjali shares an easy pork starter recipe which is her go-to when she’s pressed for time.
Ingredients
- 300g Pork belly
- Rock salt, to taste
- 2–3 Bird’s eye chillies (reduce if sensitive to spice)
- 5–6 Garlic cloves
- Juice of 1 Lime
Method
- In a pressure cooker, cook the pork belly with ½ cup water until it is about ¾ cooked.
- Drain the water, then transfer the pork to a hot pan. Once the fat begins to render and the pieces start to crackle, lower the heat to a simmer.
- Continue cooking until the pork fat and skin soften, and the pieces become scorched and red.
- Using a mortar and pestle, crush the garlic, chillies, rock salt, and lime juice until well bruised and blended.
- Mix the pork with the wet paste, adjusting salt and lime to taste.
- Serve and enjoy.