London is a city rife with stories where every stretch of grubby pavement has a history and the same goes for its restaurants. Buildings that have stood strong for centuries often play host to locations which have hosted some of the most famous named through history and in the heart of Soho, the Maison Bertaux is a perfect example of how London’s historic spots still have their place in the modern culinary montage.
Hailed as the oldest patisserie in London, Maison Bertaux was opened all the way back in 1871, making 2024 its 153rd year of operation. It was first opened by a French communard Monsieur Bertaux who was moving from Paris. With armfuls of recipes in tow, Bertaux set up shop at 28 Greek Street in Soho, next to the Coach and Horses pub. At the time, this part of Soho was a hub for the French community in London and today is known as a centre of culture and a favourite for tourists.
From their compact but bustling kitchen wafts the intoxicating aroma of butter and vanilla, as skilled pastry chefs craft an array of sublime French-inspired treats. The display case gleams with perfectly executed classics – glossy chocolate eclairs with crackling shells and silky crème pâtissière, towering celebration cakes adorned with fresh berries and edible flowers, and scones so generously proportioned they could easily satisfy two.
The light blue facade and striped awning are well known to locals and over the years the patisserie has earned the love of locals. Since 1988, the cafe has been run by sisters Michele and Tania Wade who have been dedicated to expanding the menu. From one tea to twenty, from traditional cakes and viennoiseries to celebrity wedding cakes and afternoon sandwiches, they do it all.
The space itself also holds a wealth of memories with three mirrors in the cafe inscribed with the French motto Liberté, égalité, fraternité, and a charming upright piano on which rests a well-used copy of The Art Of French Baking. Soho has always been the stomping ground for aspiring artists and creatives, and the cafe often hosts events like poetry nights, gallery showings and open mics to cater to their clientele.
Since its inception, Maison Bertaux has been a cherished haunt of London's artistic and intellectual elite, drawing an impressive roster of cultural luminaries through its doors. The Soho institution has served everyone from Victorian-era intellectuals like Karl Marx and Virginia Woolf to contemporary artists and performers including Howard Hodgkin (who selected the shop's distinctive blue facade), Grayson Perry, and Noel Fielding – who later held his first art exhibition in the patisserie's upstairs gallery space.
The list of notable patrons spans the glitterati of Hollywood too, counting Nicole Kidman, Martin Freeman, John Hurt, Damon Albarn, and Bob Geldof among its regulars, while literary figures Dylan Thomas and Jeffrey Bernard were known to while away the afternoon hours between pub sessions at its tables. The patisserie's connection to the fashion world was cemented when it hosted Alexander McQueen's 25th birthday celebration and crafted Lily Allen's wedding cake, while its upstairs gallery has showcased works by artists including Timothy Spall, Sigur Ros, Diva Zappa, and Harry Hill, further solidifying its place in London's creative firmament.
Over the years this cafe's popularity shows no sign of waning. In fact, in 2020, when they faced financial struggles during the COVID lockdown, Maison Bertaux sent out a plea to their patrons who rose to the occasion, donating all amounts big and small to keep their beloved cafe alive. As of 2024, they’re thriving once more and are likely to be around for many decades to come.